Photo by Irene Kucherova. Ready to ride in our customized jackets!
Custom rose patches, styled and sewn by Karleen Eberle. Stitched on to her Dianese motorcycle jacket.
DIY Sewing Patches
Excerpts
Writing, photos, custom design by Karleen Eberle
Published by Modern Moto Magazine
Fashion and motorcycles are both vehicles of self-expression. Riding around here in Oakland I love seeing iconic MC’s rock their motifs. The culture has evolved to be more inclusive and accepted, so let your personality shine! Whether you collect patches for your denim jacket or want to customize your riding jacket, let’s sew! Check out the blog for detailed video tutorials. I’ve developed two projects:
All Levels
Machine Stitching Denim Jacket
Tools: sewing machine, denim needles (14-16 gauge), thread.
Don’t have a sewing machine ? Use hand sewing technique below.
Intermediate
Leather Hand Sewing
Tools: Leather hand sewing needles (2), heavy duty thread, thimble and/or scrap of leather, beeswax, needle nose pliers
Placement Considerations
Symmetrical v. asymmetrical look
Focal point; single focus v. collage look
Color schemes
Personal style & skill
Leather Hand Sewing
Thread your needle with a single thread and coat with beeswax. Place tools immediately within reach.
First & last stitch: Take one ⅛” to ¼” stitch into the leather to secure the thread. Then insert needle through back of patch, pulling needle to the front side. Now you can see the thread.
We’re doing the “backstitch.” Move needle backwards (to the right) ⅛” inch, insert needle down into both the patch and leather.
The needle is now under the leather. Take a stitch by moving forward (left) ½” to ⅝” inch. Use the needle tip to pull leather away from lining. Use the thimble like a shield on your forefinger. Pinch the leather slightly and push the needle & thread through.
To push the needle, use your thimble or leather scrap to protect your finger. Alternatively, grab the needle with your pliers, push or pull as needed. Experiment; personally I push the needle with my leather scrap, then pull through with pliers.
Last stitch, same method at the first. Plus tie a knot or two. Use the needle tip to push the knot snug up against the leather. Leave at least 6” of thread to tie a knot.
Tips:
Thread two needles.
Don’t make the thread longer than your forearm.
Start at a midpoint rather than the top or bottom of your patch to prevent puckers.
Stuff crumpled newspaper into the back protector pocket of the jacket to separate the layers.
Note:
Yes there are tailors who can open jacket and stitch patches on. We are not opening the jacket lining up, please don’t try that on your own.
Karleen at work demonstrating how to hand sew on leather.
Demonstrating the "swirl" technique, rubber band tying, and dye application.
Tie-Dye DIY Article
Excerpts
Writing, dye work, photos by Karleen Eberle
Published by Modern Moto Magazine
I find riding to be a sublime juxtaposition of heightened awareness and complete calm. Feeling the motor’s warmth beneath me, seeing light play through trees onto the road, knowing the pattern of approaching a curve yet always ready for the unknown. If you resonate with that bliss, then I bet you’ll dig tie-dye too! Plan your colors, tie a pattern that feels groovy, and let the color play rev your creative engine!
As the season changes, a svelte wool or silk scarf will keep you warm while riding. You could even tie-dye silk, wool, and cotton base layers! If you’re indoors reminiscing about sunny cruises, channel the memories into an inspiring color palette for a cozy sweatshirt or beanie (tuque for the Canadians!). When those blue-turquoise mountains or golden-orange sunsets are calling your name. Get lost in the swirls, and fluidity of the dye process...just like those mountain curves. While you’re at it, dye some fun bandanas or T’s for next summer!
Shopping List:
Garments, scarves, fabric made of cotton, silk, wool.
Fiber Reactive “Procion” Dyes; Dharma or Jaquard brand
Synthrapol detergent
Optional: Soda Ash & Urea dye chemicals
Dust mask: I recommend eye protection too
Rubber gloves
Rubber bands
Plastic bag/plastic wrap (1 per item)
tarp/dropcloth/newspaper
Squeeze bottles (1 per color)
Bucket or old kitchen pot
Rags for spills
Step 5) Apply Dye! Wear gloves. Place newspaper underneath to catch excess. Get the nozzle into the folds and fully saturate the fabric. Carefully use your gloved fingers to make sure you get dye into all the crevices. Have a rag handy to wipe up any drips. More drips = more color mixing.
Think about how the colors will mix; red + blue = purple, purple + yellow = brown. Do tests on strips of paper towel or fabric. Choosing primary colors or an only cool/warm color scheme is a safe bet to avoid muddy colors. Example: Red, Yellow, Blue or Blue, Purple, Turquoise.
Step 6) Cure between 4 - 24 hours. Place in individual plastic bags or cover with plastic wrap. General rule: 6 hours max for silk, 24 hours for cotton. Dyes lose reactivity after 24 hours.
Step 7) Rinse & reveal; start with cold, rinse and wring out until water runs clear. Remove rubber bands. Increase temp to warm, rinse until clear. Then machine wash in warm cycle with Synthrapol. Fill the washer with the Synthrapol & warm/hot water, then add the garments. I use the “delicate/quick” warm setting. Don’t worry your washer won’t turn into a rainbow. Hang dry. Once dry press with appropriate iron heat setting, some colors really pop with the pressing!
Step 8) Clean up; wash your tub/sink right away. Dispose of dyes down the drain, as you would with any household chemicals/cleaners. You can use extra dyes for about 1 week.
Tie-dyed silk scarf, styled with a motorcycle jacket.
