Project Brief :
To create a collection of high-end pieces, suited for festive and wedding wear purposes. Each piece should reflect the artistry of the craft, all the while building on the existing aesthetic of the traditional Banarasi.
Design Inspiration : Mughal Miniature Paintings
Image (left) : Detached folio from the Hamzanama, gouache on cotton backed with paper ; Source : V&A Museum
Image (left) : "Jahangir and his Father, Akbar", Folio from the Shah Jahan Album (16th century), Painting by Balachand, Calligraphy by Mir 'Ali Haravi, Ink, opaque watercolor, and gold on paper ; Source : Met Museum
Image (left) : Portrait of Emperor Shah Jahan c. 1630, Painted by Hashim, gum tempera, ink and gold on paper ; Source : Cleveland Museum of Art
Image (Left) : 'Unwan from the Shah Jahan Album c. 1630-40, Calligrapher : Mir 'Ali Haravi, Ink, opaque watercolor, and gold on paper, Source: Met Museum
Mughal art has always been a major inspiration for the traditional Banarasi aesthetic. Thus, the challenge in this collection, was to present it in a unique manner. Keeping that in mind, the designs were envisioned in a way that had the characteristic intricacy and elegance, of Mughal miniature art. The craft techniques were mindfully employed in each piece to achieve similar level of finesse as in the paintings, onto the fabric.
Color Palette
The colour palette was chosen keeping in mind the bright, jewel-tones used in these miniature paintings and also the colours that have worked well for the brand, in the past festive seasons. This coupled with interesting arrangement, layouts and distinctive usage of colours, created a completely different visual, adding to the aesthetic repertoire of the brand.
Given below are the images of the designs made :
Katan (plain woven, mulberry silk) silk sari, with gold zari and silk extra weft ; woven using kadhwa technique of Banarasi
Colour ways
Katan silk sari, with gold and silver zari, silk extra weft ; woven using kadhwa technique of Banarasi
Colour ways and detail images
Katan silk sari, with real gold and silver zari, silk extra weft ; woven using kadhwa technique of Banarasi
Detail image
Colour ways ; left : Katan silk, right : katan tissue (silk warp, real gold zari weft)
Katan silk sari, with gold and silver zari extra weft; woven using phekwa technique of Banarasi
Colour - ways and detail image
Katan silk sari, with gold and silver zari, silk extra weft; woven using combination of phekwa and kadhwa techniques of Banarasi
Colour - ways and detail images
Yardage fabrics (thaans) for garments
This project was made for Tilfi Banaras, all the designs are the intellectual property of Tilfi and thus cannot be shared in detail on a public platform. Usage of any content of this project anywhere, in any medium, is strictly prohibited.
Product image credits : Team Tilfi
Stitched garments : Siddharth Pandey
Big thanks to all the weavers, graph - makers and artisans for their inputs, and translating the designs beautifully on to fabric.
